Christmas is on its way and I’m wondering how you will enjoy this feast. Having barely wiped the oil from my greedy chops after Chanukah’s latke fest, This secular Jew can begin thinking about Christmas, and yes, latkes do go rather well with a roast turkey – if you can be bothered!
Christmas isn’t a good time for everyone – especially non-Christians. It can also be a lonely time if estranged from family, or if you just don’t live in the same city. The worst thing about Christmas? Obligation! Whether it be where you are obliged to go on the day, how much you spend on presents or whether your turkey is free-range. Or will you serve turkey at all?
What I do love are family traditions and the way they evolve. Back in the 70s I decided if you could eat duck with orange sauce you could eat turkey with mango sauce. It’s been a family tradition ever since; except that after I moved to Perth my adult niece took it over. This year I’ll be in Sydney for Christmas and I’ll find out how good hers is.
The ‘mango-glazed’ turkey was of course just one of those things. I was catering for a wedding and I figured the ‘old buffet turkey breast’ would make a great centrepiece … well it was the 70s! These days of course I’d be run out of town if it wasn’t smoked or covered in yuzu or matcha. So it was just a question of making a nice thick mango sauce (sautéed ginger, lots of mango flesh, fresh coriander, white wine .. just make it up) and using it for a marinade, baste with it and leave a good jug full of the chunkier part to eat with the turkey, just like cranberry sauce only delicious.
So this year I won’t be getting up at 7 am to turn the oven on!
Speaking of traditions, my Brazilian ex-introduced me to rabanada (pronounced habanada). A very sweet and wonderful version of French toast, which I never got right until I went to Brasil and found out his Mum’s secret. Another a secret I should have known is that it is put on the table to enjoy with or after the Christmas eve meal. I just thought French toast and a pot of coffee was a great way to start Christmas Day. So Rabanda on Christmas morning became a tradition in my home.
However, my Christmas Day in Brasil turned out to be more stressful than I could have imagined, what with exploding gas bottles, bee invasions and Dona Angelina commandeering the kitchen for most of the afternoon. However, she did produce a mountain of rabanada. A surplus in fact.
So, 2 secrets I learnt. First you need to use a baguette and cut it quite thick, but her secret is leite condensado, condensed milk (also used in Brazilian crème caramel). I’m always fascinated by the ways processed foods have become absorbed into traditional dishes. I’m thinking of my Mum’s chicken pie, with a packet of mushroom soup in there.
You don’t need a recipe for rabanada, just add a small can of condensed milk to your beaten eggs instead of milk. You may soak the bread in milk first, but take care it doesn’t get too soggy. Do cook at a lower temperature to avoid burning. You can flatten it a bit as it cooks. Butter or oil or both, suit yourself. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon to finish. Dona Angelina’s surplus? Re-heated really well in a frypan; though a sandwich press is perfect.